One to Watch

Horology enthusiast Adam Craniotes breaks down the biggest brands in the business.
Many people can say they collect watches, but few can claim to transform their hobby into an 
internationally recognized movement. And yet that’s exactly what Red Bar Crew co-founder 
Adam Craniotes has done within this niche market, cultivating a group as easily sociable 
as it is knowledgeable.

A number of years ago, Craniotes and fellow collector Dr. Jeffrey Jacques began meeting for 
post-work drinks to talk timepieces. Over a period of time – meticulously tracked, no doubt – these 
meetings grew to include other enthusiasts. Eventually, through leveraging social media and 
networking, the group expanded to unofficial cult status, now gathering on a weekly basis in various
locations around New York City. In order to gain a better understanding of the vintage pieces in our 
upcoming auction, we asked Adam Craniotes for just a few minutes of his beautifully chronicled time.

What are people looking for in watches right now?

Adam Craniotes: ‘Classic’ is big right now. We’re seeing vintage pieces from Patek Philippe and Rolex perform well in the market, and we’re looking at the provenance more than anything: Has the watch been refinished? Has it been polished? What is the significance of the movement? What’s driving the market is that there are so many knowledgeable collectors now. The amount of vintage pieces that are for sale remain static; we’re not going to make more of these. So, with a more informed client base, collectors are really looking for that one perfect piece with just the right dial, or perfect case lugs, aware that this is something that they only made for a certain amount of time.
Patek Philippe’s Calatrava, Ref. 565, circa 1950

Can we look at some of the big brands? What should a collector know 
about Patek Philippe?

AC: In terms of what collectors should be looking for, it all boils down to the condition of 
the piece. Certain complications will cost more – they’re known for their perpetual calendars 
and minute repeaters – and this is something that the brand has always had expertise 
in. Certain movements are more desirable, and there’s irony in that because some of the more 
valuable vintage Pateks are not what we would consider true in-house movements; many 
of what are now considered their finest pieces were built off movements or kits from outside 
suppliers. As a collector, you do want to be versed in the history of the movement and the 
condition of the piece. A lot of watches have been refinished, a lot of dials have been redone, 
and even if the work has been done by Patek Philippe, what the collectors want now is 
something that’s original, 100 percent.

Let’s talk about Audemars Piguet, what makes that an interesting brand for collectors?

AC: Like Patek Philippe, Audemars is one of a handful of manufacturers that are still privately
owned. Right now, the story for many people starts and ends with the Royal Oak. It was
created in 1972 by a designer named Gérald Genta. This watch not only saved the company, 
but it created an entirely new genre of timepiece: the luxury sport watch. Like Patek Philippe, 
a lot of their expertise comes from their complications. As with any vintage piece, you want to 
know the provenance – that the condition is right, that it hasn’t been modified. But I think a 
savvy collector would be looking beyond the Royal Oak at this point, and there’s definite 
value there.
A Vacheron Constantin Ladies Watch, circa 1920.

What can you tell us about Vacheron Constantin?

 AC: Vacheron Constantin is the ‘watch of kings.’ This is a manufacturer that was founded
in 1755, so again, they have amazing history. I think in terms of vintage pieces, it’s more
of a value than Patek Philippe and even Rolex – you don’t have to go in with a million
dollars to walk away with a really exceptional watch. I would be looking for pieces from
the ‘40s or ‘50s, gold case. With them, I wouldn’t even focus so much complications.
Their simple three hand watches are timeless and beautiful.

 You mentioned Rolex. For the watch laymen, that’s a brand that most people recognize. What makes it more interesting for a collector?

 AC: Rolex is the 800-pound gorilla, always. A lot of that can be attributed to their marketing,
which is exceptional. But it can also be attributed to the fact that these are very reliable,
sturdy watches. For the collector, what makes it interesting is to find that one piece that
nobody else has found – and that hasn’t been altered. People will send their watch for
repairs not even knowing what they have, and Rolex will fix it – ‘Oh , this dial is messed
up and let’s fix these hands for you’ – and then the watch comes back and it’s already
lost half its value [because certain dials or references may be more popular]. Many people
aren’t aware of that, and because so many original owners used these watches as
they were meant to be used – as tools! – they haven’t survived in perfect condition.
But they’re meant to be used under water, and they’re meant to go to the top of
Mt. Everest, and many collectors really relish that.

 What about Jaeger-LeCoultre?

 AC: Their tagline is ‘the watchmaker’s watch’ and traditionally they were known as a
movement manufacturer, providing for many major brands. Now, they’ve moved on to
tending their own gardens, so to speak. But if you look at historic pieces – Audemars,
Vacheron – they all used movements from JLC. So today, they’ve applied all that to
their own pieces and they’ve demonstrated mastery in everything. In terms of vintage
pieces, as with Vacheron Constantin, I would consider them more of a value. For me,
whether vintage or contemporary, it’s one of my favorite brands.
Omega’s military ‘Naiad Medicus’, circa 1941.


Are there any other brands that collectors should keep an eye out for?

AC: Omega, another very famous, storied brand. The Speedmaster chronograph is 
arguably one of the most famous chronographs; it’s the watch that went to space and
is still certified for every mission that NASA runs. It’s the only watch that’s been on the 
moon. I would say if you’re a collector and you don’t feel like spending that much, but 
you want a piece that’s significant, a pre-moon Speedmaster is a safe bet. These are 
the watches that were manufactured before NASA’s program, and I think that in the 
coming year, we’re going to start to see their value go up.

What’s the one piece of advice you would give a beginning collector?

AC: You’ve got to know what you like. I’m a firm believer that you buy what you like, 
and you wear what you buy. Some people might argue that you want it to be an 
investment, but part of the enjoyment of a watch is to have it on your wrist. We’re not
necessarily buying these things to tell time; you’re buying it for the story, and you’re
buying it for that visceral emotion you feel when you look at it. So decide: Do you like
dress watches? Sport watches? What type of complications are you into? I would just
say to buy something that makes you smile.


This interview has been edited and condensed.